Long Beach - Where the Queen Mary Lives

Long Beach, California is a city that used to apologize for it self. Long Beach, once home to one of the largest U.S. Navy bases and Naval shipyards in the world as well as McDonnell-Douglas Aircraft, was also often referred to as “Iowa by the sea”, because so many Iowans had moved to Long Beach and surrounding areas to avoid the harsh midwestern winters.

Long Beach is currently home to over 600,000 residents. Where the downtown district once was crowded with sailors and merchant seamen from around the globe, sophisticated retail and hospitality establishments now flourish and the streets teem with shoppers and diners who seek quality in life.

Today, Long Beach is a city driving as hard and fast into the future as the cars that race it’s streets during the Long Beach/Toyota Grand Prix. People from all around the world immediately recognize the postcard view of the Long Beach shoreline because of the presence of the iconic Queen Mary. It’s 2007 and Long Beach no longer has anything to apologize for.

The city is a Southern California hub. A rapidly expanding port, one of the largest anywhere, brings foreign goods to eager U.S. consumers as it also ships America’s products to a waiting world. Half way, between Los Angeles and Disneyland, Long Beach is a destination for countless conventioners and tourists who treasure its waterside beauty and modern amenities.

A thriving downtown nightlife and entertainment culture gives the city a most cosmopolitan feel. Because of this, hip homebuyers snap up loft-type condominiums soon after they come to market. The city-wide restaurant scene is a complimenting mix of well-respected national chains and fabulous freestanding operations. Small, boutique eateries dot the local landscape and offer the adventurous diner a diverse culinary experience.

The rest of the country may look upon Southern California (or SoCal) as merely being just a homogenous continuation of the Greater Los Angeles Sprawl, but the discerning traveler is fast realizing that Long Beach stands alone as a singular point of interest.

Make Long Beach part of your itinerary when visiting “The Left Coast”. If you already live somewhere in Southern California, make a point of coming to “The Beach” for an evenings entertainment. You’ll soon become one of the many who understand that Long Beach is nobody’s stepchild anymore.

-Gordonn Blue

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The Yard House...in Long Beach

This past December marked the 10th anniversary of what has become a behemoth in the food and beverage industry, The Yard House. Long Beach is still home to the flagship operation but 15 other stores in 6 states now join it.

What is it about this concept that produces gross revenues estimated to be in the vicinity of $115 million a year? One could certainly point to their upscale designs occupying prime real estate or the very deliberate selection of music that loudly plays. Perhaps it’s the highly acclaimed “American Fusion” menu that boasts over a 100 items created by Executive Chef Carlito Jocson.

Well, yes, those are all important to this chains success. But, It’s beer that steers this ship. In Long Beach, there are 250 separate beers on tap. That’s right, on tap. This is no small feat. It takes approximately 5 miles of tap lines to service the bar. And, think of this: there is somewhere in the neighborhood of 6,000 gallons of beer being cooled by nearly 2,000 gallons of coolant per hour. These are heady (the pun is intended) numbers.

The ideas that are behind the Yard Houses phenomenal success are fairly obvious. What isn’t so apparent is their management philosophy. Steele Platt, Founder and CEO, Harald Hermann, President and COO and the above-mentioned Carlito Jocson were enlightened enough to offer equity shares to key employees. What this does is makes owners of the management staff. Customers benefit because there is always somebody on premise that thinks and acts like an owner. The term “customer care” then takes on a much higher meaning.

Perhaps this is one of the reasons that The Yard House has won so many industry awards. If only more operations were so inclined.

-Gordonn Blue

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Mckenna's on the Bay...in Long Beach

The years have quietly slipped by much as the boats now do past the windows of McKenna’s on the Bay. McKenna’s is not a new name to Long Beach. It was in the early 70’s and late 80’s that the original McKenna’s was making friends in what is now the Claim Jumper.

John Faber, a Long Beach native, (Wilson class of ’56) was/is the past and present owner. McKenna’s Creek, as it was known back then, was the crowning jewel in a chain of restaurants under the now defunct Fiddler’s 3 banner. Several years ago, BanCorp, owners of the Alamitos Bay Landing, approached the semi-retired Mr. Faber to discuss building a restaurant at the former site of Moose McGillicudy’s. Fire had destroyed the original structure, which had also been the home of Hungry Jose’s, way back when. Fortunately, John said “yes”.

McKenna’s on the Bay takes full advantage of this prime piece of Long Beach real estate. The light off shimmering water reflects through the windows and warms the Cherry Wood interior. Flames from the wood fired grills in the very open kitchen flashes off stainless steel and etched glass.

I visited this stylish eatery on a Thursday night. Normally, I would have, as a dinner companion, a member of the fairer sex. Not this night. It was my youngest son’s 13th birthday and I wanted him to experience fine dining. We have eaten thousands of meals together, but we have rarely “dined” together.

How I go about crafting a perfect dining out experience is to first, peruse the wine list. There are many occasions when the evening’s wine is chosen first and the food is then matched after. My eyes poured over the listings, which include nearly 30 wines by the glass. This is an enlightened way to market pedigreed wine. (Sadly, I saw no dessert wines listed).

I had in mind a meal beginning with freshly shucked oysters. McKenna’s even proclaims a small counter seating space as an “Oyster Bar”. Here a diner may sit and watch skilled hands open the delectable bivalves for immediate enjoyment. There were three varieties available this evening. There were Fanny Bay’s from British Columbia, plump, well formed and slightly sea-salty, Malpec’s, a mild and delicate type and Kumamoto’s, renowned in these parts. My plate consisted of a sampling of all three ($17.50 per dozen) and I pronounced the Fanny Bay’s to be this night’s winner.

Our server, Michael, was in confident control of the experience. He was in total synch with what I had envisioned for the evening. I had already internally selected the Frogs Leap Sauvignon Blanc ($8.50 per glass) as my first course wine. When I placed the order for the oysters, he promptly suggested a Sauvignon Blanc. Had he read my thoughts or did this personable young man posses superior product knowledge? It was the latter. The Frog’s Leap had the right balance of crisp acidity and fruitiness to balance out the seductive textures of the oysters.

I have another peculiar way of selecting a main course. I like to put my server to the test. I give basic parameters as to type of entrée and ask that the server and the kitchen collaborate on what my meal will be. There is pressure on both the front and the back-of-the-house personnel to step up to the plate, so to speak. I am absolutely trusting the staff to select the type of preparation and style of presentation for my meal. I want them to “sign their work”. Deep down, professionals love this challenge.

Michael and the Boys in the Kitchen certainly rose to the occasion. He brought me a beautiful piece of apple wood grilled Wild Salmon ($28). If you have had Salmon before but all you’ve ever had was farm-raised fish, then you really haven’t ever had Salmon. No joke. It’s like the difference between powdered milk and whole milk. They both have the word “milk” in the name, but the comparison stops there.

My Salmon was plated in the modern fashion, meaning vertically. The base was Vodka, Basil Cream Sauce that had a drizzle of Balsamic Vinegar “spider-webbed” through it. Resting on the base was a bed of a pan-fried, crusted Risotto. The Salmon was next, topped with sautéed Spinach. The entire dish was garnished with a slice of heirloom tomato and a basil/tomato chiffonade.

Again, Michael and I were on the same page. I was intrigued from the beginning with the La Crema Pinot Noir ($12 per glass) and was hoping that I would have some excuse for ordering it. Salmon is perhaps the only fish where a light bodied red, such as Pinot Noir, might be a suitable companion. Michael had immediately suggested this varietal and I once again was impressed by his product knowledge. The velvet sheen smokiness of the La Crema played in perfect harmony with the wood fire inspired Salmon.

My son has still not developed the adventuresome palate that his old man has, so he was content to have the mesquite-grilled top sirloin and jumbo battered prawns as his entrée ($38). Professional kitchens tend to use a simple color system for identifying meat preparation. The Top Sirloin came out the precise shade of pink that says, “medium rare”. The prawns were enormous and the batter was “tempura-like” not quite as light, but surely not heavy, “pancake-like” either. Both entrée’s came with a salad and I ordered the house Caesar salad to be served AFTER the main-course. This old habit dies hard.

I must stop for a moment to talk about subtle touches that speaks volumes about a restaurant. Upon walking in to any restaurant, I can immediately spot those operations that take the little stuff seriously. If they fail to take care of the smallest details, what makes me think they are up to the bigger, more important stuff? What is the tip off? “Sidework”. If the staff isn’t energized to clean and refill the salt and peppershakers after each shift, for example, that’s a bad sign. If the tables all have a different way of being set up, that’s a bad sign. Are the bathrooms a mess early in the shift? Not good. Long wait between the time you sit down and the time SOMEONE comes to your table? Uh oh.

McKenna’s is old school when it comes to the small touches. Everything points to a combined staff that takes pride in their work and leaves nothing to chance. I love the fact the when ketchup came to the table for my son’s shoestring fries, it wasn’t in some crusty half-filled bottle. It was in what is called a “monkey dish” in the trade, meaning a small wide bowl. Nice touch. Your water glasses are smallish “milk” glasses and the water “pitcher” is actually a glass milk jug…remember those? I liked the presentation.

John Faber has another winner on his hands. This is not by accident. He knows what he is doing and has the right people doing the right jobs for him. He also has the good fortune to be located in a spot most restrautuers would gladly make a deal with the devil to have. But as good as the view is, the best view is that of the plate.

McKenna’s on the Bay is open 7 days a week for dinner. Lunch is served Monday thru Friday. They have a full bar and live acoustic entertainment on occasion. All major credit cards are accepted. Reservations are always suggested but not required. Valet and Self Parking are also available and there are proper moorings if you come by boat. The phone number is (562) 342-9411. They are located in the Alamitos Bay Landing restaurant/shopping complex overlooking the Long Beach Marina, near the back road bridge to Seal Beach.

-Gordonn Blue

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Yen Sushi and Sake Bar in Long Beach

The time that I spent living in Hawaii gave me a deep appreciation for the ways in which fresh fish can be prepared. It has to do with, not only the freshness of the basic product, but the reverence in which it is treated. In the cultural mixing pot that is Hawaii, all have this same serious approach to fish.

Similarly, my life in Seattle was all about great seafood. Feasting on Salmon the way it was meant to be prepared, cooked over an alderwood fire like the indigenous peoples of the Northwest have been doing for countless millennia, gives one a connection with the food that is part gastronomic and part spiritualistic. There is a communion with the fish that generates a respect you never get from eating a steak.

This is probably why I am drawn to the cuisine of Japan. Here is a culture that is all about Ritual. This reflects in the way in which the food is both prepared and presented and it shows true reverence. This island nation sustains itself on the sea and so it befits their culture that they demonstrate a deep appreciation for the bounty the sea provides. Maybe it’s also because the sea can be a very dangerous place to make a living. The effort it takes to bring fish to the table cannot be underestimated.

I have stumbled into hole-in-the-wall sushi joints where I was the only Caucasian and felt so at home because I shared in the love for what was placed before me. I have also posed with the fabulous people in the swank spots where the seeing and the being seen was more important than the appreciation for the skills of the men behind the simple, artful counters. Guess which ones were really the most fun.

Long Beach has a respectable array of quality sushi restaurants. Devotees of a particular establishment will argue loudly about why their favorite place is the best. This is good. It shows passion and loyalty and a sense of ownership to one’s favorite hangout.

One of the standout businesses that call Long Beach home is Yen Sushi and Sake Bar. It was here that I stopped by for lunch and a lesson in Premium Sake.

Yen is two-year old business that occupies prime real estate between Bono’s and La Creperie on 2nd street in Belmont Shore. I like the minimalist, artistic interior where nothing distracts from the business at hand, enjoying quality fish presented in a very eye-catching manner. I also appreciate the style of service which is friendly, and yet, in a very quaint way, formal. Modern day service often mistakes familiarity with friendliness. At Yen, you are accorded the respect that you deserve. You are treated as an honored guest and not merely as a customer. There is a difference.

One of the features that separates Yen from the others is the high-quality selection of premium Sake that is available. I have learned, over the years, that Sake can be as nuanced and interesting as any single malt or vineyard select. And, like with any agricultural based product, it starts in the earth.

Let’s first answer the age-old question. Is Sake a wine or a beer? This is like, “is a tomato a fruit or a vegetable?” Well, a tomato is a technically a fruit and Sake is technically a beer. Not a wine? No. Wine uses fruit, which during the fermentation process, yeast eats natural sugars, which it converts to alcohol. Beer uses grains which must have its starches converted to sugar, which is then fermented into alcohol. This is a two-step process that wine doesn’t have to go through.

One of the by-products of fermentation is the creation of both heat and carbon dioxide. Traditional beer captures the CO2, which is where the bubbles come from. Sake allows the CO2 to escape into the atmosphere. No bubbles. Sake is also produced in a brewery where you would expect beer to come from.

But, I digress. The quality of any given Sake is a direct result of the quality of the rice used and the milling process, which is where the whole fermentation thing gets going. In milling rice for a premium Sake, the object is to get to the center of the grain where the starches are. The Japanese call this the Shinpaku or “White Heart”. Everything else, the proteins, fats, amino acids, which all negatively affect final flavor, have to be milled away to get to this desirable core.

The two highest grades for Sake are Ginjyo (Premium) and Dai Ginjyo (Super Premium). In the former, 40% of the grain must be milled away. In the latter, 50% of the grain must be milled away. And, the rice isn’t good old Uncle Ben’s either. There are exacting classifications for which varieties can be used. This whole process IS VERY DELIBERATE.

Yen has a fair selection of each of these two high quality styles and I would urge anyone who seeks to experience the finer things in life to partake. A final word on the enjoyment of Premium Sake: True Aficionados know that heat disrupts the balance found in great Sake; therefore they are best enjoyed chilled. Be prepared to open the wallet, though. This amount of dedication and handcrafting doesn’t come cheap. But neither does a top-end Single Malt Scotch or a Single Barrel Whiskey or a well aged Blue Agave Tequila, not to mention a Grand Cru Bordeaux.

I liked Yen Sushi and Sake Bar for lunch. It was prompt, but unhurried. It was healthy and it satisfied both my appetite and my artistic sensibilities. I promised myself to return on a Thursday evening when they have a live Jazz combo performing. The thought of jazz played in this intimate space with its extremely gracious staff serving a lively crowd on a Belmont Shore Thursday sounds rather appealing, don’t you think.

Yen Sushi and Sake Bar is located at 4905 E. 2nd st (at St Joseph Ave.) (562) 434-5757
Lunch is served Monday thru Friday from 11am to 3pm.
Dinner is served every night of the week
Live Jazz on Thursday from 7pm to 9:30pm
All major credit cards are welcome

-Gordonn Blue

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