Yen Sushi and Sake Bar in Long Beach

The time that I spent living in Hawaii gave me a deep appreciation for the ways in which fresh fish can be prepared. It has to do with, not only the freshness of the basic product, but the reverence in which it is treated. In the cultural mixing pot that is Hawaii, all have this same serious approach to fish.

Similarly, my life in Seattle was all about great seafood. Feasting on Salmon the way it was meant to be prepared, cooked over an alderwood fire like the indigenous peoples of the Northwest have been doing for countless millennia, gives one a connection with the food that is part gastronomic and part spiritualistic. There is a communion with the fish that generates a respect you never get from eating a steak.

This is probably why I am drawn to the cuisine of Japan. Here is a culture that is all about Ritual. This reflects in the way in which the food is both prepared and presented and it shows true reverence. This island nation sustains itself on the sea and so it befits their culture that they demonstrate a deep appreciation for the bounty the sea provides. Maybe it’s also because the sea can be a very dangerous place to make a living. The effort it takes to bring fish to the table cannot be underestimated.

I have stumbled into hole-in-the-wall sushi joints where I was the only Caucasian and felt so at home because I shared in the love for what was placed before me. I have also posed with the fabulous people in the swank spots where the seeing and the being seen was more important than the appreciation for the skills of the men behind the simple, artful counters. Guess which ones were really the most fun.

Long Beach has a respectable array of quality sushi restaurants. Devotees of a particular establishment will argue loudly about why their favorite place is the best. This is good. It shows passion and loyalty and a sense of ownership to one’s favorite hangout.

One of the standout businesses that call Long Beach home is Yen Sushi and Sake Bar. It was here that I stopped by for lunch and a lesson in Premium Sake.

Yen is two-year old business that occupies prime real estate between Bono’s and La Creperie on 2nd street in Belmont Shore. I like the minimalist, artistic interior where nothing distracts from the business at hand, enjoying quality fish presented in a very eye-catching manner. I also appreciate the style of service which is friendly, and yet, in a very quaint way, formal. Modern day service often mistakes familiarity with friendliness. At Yen, you are accorded the respect that you deserve. You are treated as an honored guest and not merely as a customer. There is a difference.

One of the features that separates Yen from the others is the high-quality selection of premium Sake that is available. I have learned, over the years, that Sake can be as nuanced and interesting as any single malt or vineyard select. And, like with any agricultural based product, it starts in the earth.

Let’s first answer the age-old question. Is Sake a wine or a beer? This is like, “is a tomato a fruit or a vegetable?” Well, a tomato is a technically a fruit and Sake is technically a beer. Not a wine? No. Wine uses fruit, which during the fermentation process, yeast eats natural sugars, which it converts to alcohol. Beer uses grains which must have its starches converted to sugar, which is then fermented into alcohol. This is a two-step process that wine doesn’t have to go through.

One of the by-products of fermentation is the creation of both heat and carbon dioxide. Traditional beer captures the CO2, which is where the bubbles come from. Sake allows the CO2 to escape into the atmosphere. No bubbles. Sake is also produced in a brewery where you would expect beer to come from.

But, I digress. The quality of any given Sake is a direct result of the quality of the rice used and the milling process, which is where the whole fermentation thing gets going. In milling rice for a premium Sake, the object is to get to the center of the grain where the starches are. The Japanese call this the Shinpaku or “White Heart”. Everything else, the proteins, fats, amino acids, which all negatively affect final flavor, have to be milled away to get to this desirable core.

The two highest grades for Sake are Ginjyo (Premium) and Dai Ginjyo (Super Premium). In the former, 40% of the grain must be milled away. In the latter, 50% of the grain must be milled away. And, the rice isn’t good old Uncle Ben’s either. There are exacting classifications for which varieties can be used. This whole process IS VERY DELIBERATE.

Yen has a fair selection of each of these two high quality styles and I would urge anyone who seeks to experience the finer things in life to partake. A final word on the enjoyment of Premium Sake: True Aficionados know that heat disrupts the balance found in great Sake; therefore they are best enjoyed chilled. Be prepared to open the wallet, though. This amount of dedication and handcrafting doesn’t come cheap. But neither does a top-end Single Malt Scotch or a Single Barrel Whiskey or a well aged Blue Agave Tequila, not to mention a Grand Cru Bordeaux.

I liked Yen Sushi and Sake Bar for lunch. It was prompt, but unhurried. It was healthy and it satisfied both my appetite and my artistic sensibilities. I promised myself to return on a Thursday evening when they have a live Jazz combo performing. The thought of jazz played in this intimate space with its extremely gracious staff serving a lively crowd on a Belmont Shore Thursday sounds rather appealing, don’t you think.

Yen Sushi and Sake Bar is located at 4905 E. 2nd st (at St Joseph Ave.) (562) 434-5757
Lunch is served Monday thru Friday from 11am to 3pm.
Dinner is served every night of the week
Live Jazz on Thursday from 7pm to 9:30pm
All major credit cards are welcome

-Gordonn Blue

Technorati Profile